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1.
Laurent Vigouroux Marine Devise Théo Cartier Clément Aubert Eric Berton 《Journal of sports sciences》2019,37(8):886-894
Pull-ups are often used by sport-climbers and other athletes to train their arm and back muscle capabilities. Sport-climbers use different types of holds to reinforce finger strength concomitantly. However, the effect of grip types on pull-up performance had not previously been investigated. A vertical force platform sensor measured the force exerted by climbers when performing pull-ups under six different grip conditions (gym-bar, large climbing hold, and four small climbing holds: 22mm, 18mm, 14mm, and 10mm). The electromyography of finger flexors and extensor muscles were recorded simultaneously. The maximal arm power and summed mechanical work were computed. The results revealed that the number of pull-ups, maximal power, and summed mechanical work decreased significantly with the size of the climbing hold used, even if no differences were found between a large climbing hold and a gym-bar. Electromyography of the forearm muscles revealed that the use of a climbing hold generated finger flexor fatigue and that the level of cocontraction was impacted by the different segment coordination strategies generated during the pull-ups. These findings are likely to be useful for quantifying training loads more accurately and designing training exercises and programs. 相似文献
2.
优秀攀岩运动员肘关节屈伸肌等速肌力测试研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
利用德国Isomed2000等速肌力测试系统对优秀攀岩运动员左右肘肘关节进行等速测试,探析攀岩运动员肘关节屈伸肌群的生物力学特征,为运动训练科学选材及康复提供理论依据。结果：优秀攀岩运动员屈伸峰力矩（PT）随测试速度的增大而减小,且屈伸峰力矩屈肌大于肘伸肌;最大功率随测试速度的增大而增加,左右侧做功无明显差异,表明两侧肌力平衡;屈或伸的向心/离心（ECC/CON）随给定运动速度的增加而增大,屈肌的向心/离心（ECC/CON）比值小于1.0。 相似文献
3.
基于深度休闲理论,采用质性方法探索攀岩者的深度休闲特征,从而揭示攀岩的意义和价值。对11名参与1年以上的攀岩者进行开放式访谈,运用质性分析软件NVivo 11.0对数据进行主题分析。研究发现,攀岩者具有4项深度休闲特征,即自我超越、认同感、个人利益和独特个性。深度攀岩者渴望不断超越自我,突破个人能力局限。他们认同攀岩项目和攀岩社会,将攀岩内化为自我的一部分。他们获得了生理和心理上的个人利益,尤其可以满足在工作中未能满足的成就需求。他们的独特个性包括独立、坚韧和沉静,可以被攀岩塑造。建议未来加大普及攀岩的力度,鼓励更多人参与攀岩,培养深度休闲生活方式。 相似文献
4.
《European Journal of Sport Science》2013,13(8):696-702
AbstractThis study investigates the changes of the connective tissue in the fingers of performance sport climbers resulting after a minimum of 15 years of climbing. Evaluation was performed by ultrasonography on the palmar side of the fingers (Dig) II–V to measure the thickness of the A2 and A4 annular pulleys, the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) and profundus (FDP) tendons and the palmar plates (PP's) of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) as well as distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint in sagittal and axial direction. Totally, 31 experienced male sport climbers (mean age 37y, 30–48y grade French scale median 8b, range 7b+ to 9a+) participated in the study. The control-group consisted of 20 male non-climbers (age 37y, 30–51y). The A2 and A4 pulleys in climbers were all significantly thicker (A2 Dig III 62%, Dig IV 69%; A4 Dig III 69%, Dig IV 76%) as compared to non-climbers pulleys. All PP's of the DIP joints were also significantly thicker, particularly at Dig III and IV (76 and 67%), whereas the PP's at PIP joints were only scarce significant for three joints. Differences of the diameter of the flexor tendons were less distinct (1–21%) being significant only over the middle phalanx. High load to the fingers of rock climbers after a minimum of 15 years of climbing years induced considerable connective tissue adaptions in the fingers, most distinct at the flexor tendon pulleys and joint capsule (PP) of the DIP joints and well detectable by ultrasound. 相似文献
5.
In rock climbing, karabiners are used to arrest falls and consequently must be able to withstand dynamic loads. The current
international standard for rating karabiner strength prescribes a quasi-static tensile test, which poorly simulates the dynamic
nature of an actual climbing fall. In this study, a new method was developed to measure the dynamic failure loads of climbing
karabiners. Both new and heavily worn karabiners were tested open and closed, and results from static and dynamic tests were
compared. We found that the dynamic failure loads of closed karabiners were up to 50% lower than the failure loads in static
tests, while for open karabiners, the static and dynamic values were similar. The reason for this behaviour is unclear; it
is most likely due to the combined effects of different stress concentrations and loading regimes of the two tests. Irrespective
of test type, karabiner strength decreased with wear level. Based on our results, we advise frequent inspection of permanently
placed karabiners for signs of excessive wear. In addition, testing of climbing karabiners in a dynamic test in addition to
the standard static test might be considered when developing new karabiner models. 相似文献
6.
Self-reported ability assessment in rock climbing 总被引：1，自引：1，他引：0
Draper N Dickson T Blackwell G Fryer S Priestley S Winter D Ellis G 《Journal of sports sciences》2011,29(8):851-858
Level of ability within rock climbing is generally expressed in terms of a "best ascent", rated using various grading systems within the sport. The most common method of obtaining this information is via self-report. The aim of this study was to examine the validity of self-reported climbing grades. Twenty-nine competitive rock climbers (17 males, 12 females) were first asked to report their current (defined as within the last 12 months) best on-sight lead ascent grade (Aus/NZ). The participants then climbed a specifically designed indoor route, under on-sight conditions (one attempt, no route practice or preview), to obtain an assessed grade. The route increased in difficulty, and was such that the distance achieved by the climber corresponded to a particular grade. The mean (±standard deviation) self-reported and assessed grade was 22.6?±?3.4 and 22.0?±?3.0 (Aus/NZ) respectively. Despite slight over- and underestimations in males and females respectively, there was no statistically significant difference between self-reported and assessed on-sight climbing grades. The results of this study suggest that self-reported climbing grades provide a valid and accurate reflection of climbing ability. 相似文献
7.
运用比较法和问卷法对华南理工大学2003、2004级部分学生体育课开设钓鱼、攀岩合并课进行探讨发现,高校体育课中开设钓鱼、攀岩合并课能很好地培养学生耐性和提高学生体质,且学生对该课程的兴趣度极高;同时还分析了高校开设垂钓、攀岩合并课在场地设施、师资力量等方面具有较好条件,并提出高校体育课应开展垂钓、攀岩课,以丰富和满足学生对多种体育项目的追求。 相似文献
8.
Chris Button Dominic Orth Keith Davids Ludovic Seifert 《European Journal of Sport Science》2018,18(8):1090-1099
Climbers often train on indoor climbing walls, which are modifiable to simulate features of outdoor climbing environments at different levels of difficulty. The aim of this study was to evaluate the influence of regularity of climbing holds on emergent perceptual-motor behaviours. Skilled climbers performed six repetitions of two topographically similar routes on an indoor climbing wall. One route was composed of 18 different types of hand holds (irregular route), whereas the other route had only two types of hand holds (regular route). Preview and climbing durations, as well as visual search behaviours, were recorded. Participants rated the regular route as more difficult to climb, requiring greater perceived effort to complete. The time spent previewing, and then climbing the routes, was reduced on average by 12% and 16%, respectively in the irregular route compared to the regular route. There were more fixations made when climbing the regular route (281 vs. 222 fixations per trial). It seems the climbers were more careful and thorough in their gaze behaviours with the regular route because of the additional technical demands it presented, whereas the irregular route afforded a more superficial visual exploration with use of more frequent saccades between holds. The findings suggest how irregularity in the environment is exploited by skilled climbers, apparently making the practice context easier to perceive and act in. 相似文献
9.
10.
竞技攀岩作为新晋奥运项目，探究其起源和演变过程可为我国竞技攀岩的发展提供借鉴、指导及理论缘由。采用文献资料研究和逻辑分析方法，探讨了竞技攀岩的概念，分析了竞技攀岩诞生的装备和技术基础、社会文化背景，以及三个发展阶段的主要特征。研究表明，竞技攀岩是攀岩运动中符合现代竞技体育特征的部分，是攀岩运动"竞技体育化"的结果；器械装备升级提供的技术基础和战后复兴的历史背景，共同促成了竞技攀岩在苏联的诞生；竞技攀岩的演变经历了苏联时期的普及化与国际化尝试、UIAA主导的竞技攀岩国际管理体系与赛事体系建设、IFSC引领的奥运发展新时期三个阶段；竞技攀岩的后奥运时代将迎来前所未有的发展契机。 相似文献
11.
竞技攀岩作为新晋奥运项目,探究其起源和演变过程可为我国竞技攀岩的发展提供借鉴、指导及理论缘由。采用文献资料研究和逻辑分析方法,探讨了竞技攀岩的概念,分析了竞技攀岩诞生的装备和技术基础、社会文化背景,以及三个发展阶段的主要特征。研究表明,竞技攀岩是攀岩运动中符合现代竞技体育特征的部分,是攀岩运动"竞技体育化"的结果;器械装备升级提供的技术基础和战后复兴的历史背景,共同促成了竞技攀岩在苏联的诞生;竞技攀岩的演变经历了苏联时期的普及化与国际化尝试、UIAA主导的竞技攀岩国际管理体系与赛事体系建设、IFSC引领的奥运发展新时期三个阶段;竞技攀岩的后奥运时代将迎来前所未有的发展契机。 相似文献
12.
A predominant archery coaching tenet holds that the most effective means of releasing the bow string is by relaxation of the finger flexor muscles without activation of finger extensors. To evaluate the validity of this view, EMG patterns of the flexor digitorum superficialis and extensor digitorum muscles of the draw arm were examined using surface EMG electrodes in 15 highly skilled archers as each performed six shots. Each archer displayed consistent EMG patterns from shot-to-shot and two distinct flexor-extensor patterns were exhibited by the sample. The first, characterized by eight of the archers, supported the relaxation principle. For these archers, both flexor and extensor digitorum activity decreased markedly immediately prior to or at arrow release. The second pattern, characteristic of the remaining seven archers, contradicted the coaching tenet. While the flexor digitorum pattern was essentially the same as that described for the first pattern, the extensor digitorum displayed a marked increase in activity just prior to release, indicating that string release was facilitated by an active extension of the fingers. It was concluded that highly skilled archers do not predominantly reflect a release consistent with the coaching canon and that factors other than the string release mechanism discriminate the performances of skilled archers. 相似文献
13.
运用等速测试系统对备战伦敦奥运会的国家划艇运动员的肩关节、肘关节肌力进行测试与分析。结果表明:1)从力矩角度来看,优秀运动员与一般运动员在肩、肘关节肌力特征中存在显著性差异(P<0.05),且屈肌和伸肌的力矩角度分别呈现不同的特征;2)从峰力矩比值来看,在不同速度运动下,国家队优秀运动员和一般运动员均存在屈伸比的失衡问题,即最大力量上存在屈伸肌群发展的不合理化现象(<50%),随着测试速度的增加,屈伸比呈递减趋势;3)在肘关节两侧同名肌群的比较中同样存在不均衡现象,尤其是伸肌的两侧差值较大;4)肩关节的肌力特征也存在类似的现象,但屈肌明显不如伸肌力量。结论:应逐步加强划艇运动员肩、肘关节同侧屈伸肌群和异侧同名肌群的力量均衡性训练,并提高肩关节的屈肌力量能力。 相似文献
14.
Different ambient temperatures are known to affect muscular performance based on the type of contraction. The effect of cold (10°C) and thermoneutral (TN) (24°C) ambient temperatures on finger flexor performance was examined in 12 rock climbers. After 30?min of seated rest in the designated temperature condition, participants completed maximal voluntary contractions (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger flexor assessment device equipped with a crimp grip hold. Participants then completed an intermittent fatiguing task until failure. The fatiguing task consisted of 10-s contractions at 40% MVC followed by a 3-s of rest. MVC recovery was assessed immediately, 5, 10, and 15?min post-task failure. Estimated muscle temperature and subjective thermal ratings were significantly lower throughout testing in the cold condition (P?<?.001). Finger flexor MVC strength was similar between conditions at baseline and throughout recovery. Time to task failure was significantly longer (364?±?135 vs. 251?±?97 s, P?=?.003) and force time integral was greater (53,715?±?19,988 vs. 40,243?±?15,360?Ns, P?=?.001) during the cold condition. No significant differences were found between conditions for force variability or electromyography (EMG) at the start and end of the fatiguing task. However, the rate of increase in EMG for the TN condition was significantly faster (P?=?.03). These results suggest important implications for researchers when examining climbing performance, especially in outdoor settings where temperatures may vary from day to day. Inconsistencies in testing temperatures might significantly affect muscular endurance. 相似文献
15.
实验表明,速度攀岩运动是非周期性运动,攀岩运动员在速度攀岩的每趟或同一趟的不同时段,他的表面肌电信号都有较大的变化,是显著的非稳定信号。所以,运用表面肌电信号分析速度攀岩运动员的肌肉疲劳问题存在着一定的困难:不能用传统的频阈分析方法去评价相关肌肉的疲劳问题,而只有运用非线性信号分析方法才能较好解决这一问题,然而sEMG非线性信号分析的应用尚属初期探索阶段,有待科研工作者的深入研究。 相似文献
16.
《European Journal of Sport Science》2013,13(1):16-25
Abstract The aims of this study were to examine training characteristics, body composition, muscular strength, and endurance in sport climbers, and to demonstrate the relationship among these components by means of structural equation modelling. Altogether, 205 sport climbers (136 males, 69 females), with a performance RP (red point) of grade 4 to 11 on the Union Internationale des Association d'Alpinisme (UIAA) scale, took part in the study. The proposed structural model, with latent variable hand–arm strength and endurance (developed from reference values for simple tests), indicated by three manifest variables (grip strength, bent-arm hang, and finger hang) and three exogenous variables (body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience), explained 97% of the variance in climbing performance. The relationship between body fat and climbing experience/volume with climbing performance was not direct, but was better explained using the mediator hand–arm strength and endurance. We conclude that these simple tests, together with percent body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience, can satisfactorily predict climbing performance. 相似文献
17.
Background
Older adults face different challenges that affect their daily living. One of the most challenging and hazardous activities of everyday living, especially in the elderly, is stair climbing. Therefore the ability of stair climbing is inter alia used as an indicator for physical fitness and an independent life without the need of support. But until now there has not been an alternative to test the stair climbing ability than to actually climb stairs by using the stair up and down test. Therefore, this study evaluates a self-efficacy questionnaire as a complementing instrument to predict stair climbing abilities.Methods
A new instrument has been developed for German-speaking countries to assess the role of stair self-efficacy for older people (SSE). The instrument, based on the questionnaire from Hamel and Cavanagh (2004), assesses stair self-efficacy during the performance of 10 different staircase management situations and gathers information about participation in these staircase situations. Reliability and construct validity of the questionnaire were tested with a sample of 121 older adults who completed the SSE questionnaire and the Activities-specific Balance Confidence (ABC-D) scale. As an additional validity check, 90 participants performed stair climbing in a physical test.Results
Statistical analysis via a factor analysis showed that the SSE questionnaire is one-dimensional. In addition, reliability was tested by using Cronbach’s alpha and the split-half method via Spearman–Brown to calculate the internal consistency. Both methods yielded adequate results and furthermore the reliability was established via the results of the test–retest reliability. Validity was tested by the parallel testing, using the Pearson correlation between the SSE score and ABC scale, as well as physical testing.Conclusions
Taken together, the SSE questionnaire offers the possibility to evaluate stair climbing performance without the need for physical performance. This questionnaire is especially helpful because the participants do not need to become physically stressed and exposed to the risk of falling before they are confident enough to climb stairs.18.
从登山运动中衍生而来的攀岩运动,是我国政府2013年公布的首批4项高危险性体育项目之一,其损伤风险日益受到关注。为揭示攀岩运动损伤的流行病学特征,综述了国内外攀岩运动损伤相关文献,对攀岩运动损伤发生率、损伤特征和影响因素进行了梳理。结果表明,室内人工岩壁攀登的损伤发生率总体上处于较低水平;损伤多发生在手、肩、肘、腕、膝、踝等部位,但攀爬方式的转变引起了损伤部位的明显变化,当前手指滑车、手掌和肩关节损伤最为常见;损伤类型中较多为过度使用损伤和急性损伤,过度使用损伤多发于上肢,急性损伤多发于下肢;损伤的程度一般较轻。攀岩运动员的年龄、性别、运动水平、运动负荷等自身因素以及场地、保护员水平、装备器材等外部因素均会对损伤特征产生影响。建议进一步探讨攀岩运动的损伤机制和预防措施,并统一攀岩运动损伤的定义和统计标准,针对不同人群进行长期的跟踪研究,以加深对攀岩运动损伤特征和机制的认识,帮助攀岩教练员与运动员更好地预防损伤的发生。 相似文献
19.
高校攀岩运动员身体素质相关指标的监测与研究 总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1
通过文献资料法、调查访问法、测量法和数理统计法,建构高校攀岩运动员身体素质评价基本结构模型。研究可知,高校攀岩运动员的身体素质主要受五个因子的控制;身体素质综合评价模型能比较客观、全面地评定出运动员的身体素质训练水平,为今后运动员的运动训练及运动员选材提供科学依据。 相似文献