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S Grant T Hasler C Davies T C Aitchison J Wilson A Whittaker 《Journal of sports sciences》2001,19(7):499-505
There is limited information on the anthropometry, strength, endurance and flexibility of female rock climbers. The aim of this study was to compare these characteristics in three groups of females: Group 1 comprised 10 elite climbers aged 31.3 +/- 5.0 years (mean +/- s) who had led to a standard of 'hard very severe'; Group 2 consisted of 10 recreational climbers aged 24.1 +/- 4.0 years who had led to a standard of 'severe'; and Group 3 comprised 10 physically active individuals aged 28.5 +/- 5.0 years who had not previously rock-climbed. The tests included finger strength (grip strength, finger strength measured on climbing-specific apparatus), flexibility, bent arm hang and pull-ups. Regression procedures (analysis of covariance) were used to examine the influence of body mass, leg length, height and age. For finger strength, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values (P < 0.05) than the recreational climbers and non-climbers (four fingers, right hand: elite 321 +/- 18 N, recreational 251 +/- 14 N, non-climbers 256 +/- 15 N; four fingers, left hand: elite 307 +/- 14 N, recreational 248 +/- 12 N, non-climbers 243 +/- 11 N). For grip strength of the right hand, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values than the recreational climbers only (elite 338 +/- 12 N, recreational 289 +/- 10 N, non-climbers 307 +/- 11 N). The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength than recreational climbers and non-climbers. 相似文献
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Wilson M Smith NC Chattington M Ford M Marple-Horvat DE 《Journal of sports sciences》2006,24(11):1223-1233
We tested some of the key predictions of processing efficiency theory using a simulated rally driving task. Two groups of participants were classified as either dispositionally high or low anxious based on trait anxiety scores and trained on a simulated driving task. Participants then raced individually on two similar courses under counterbalanced experimental conditions designed to manipulate the level of anxiety experienced. The effort exerted on the driving tasks was assessed though self-report (RSME), psychophysiological measures (pupil dilation) and visual gaze data. Efficiency was measured in terms of efficiency of visual processing (search rate) and driving control (variability of wheel and accelerator pedal) indices. Driving performance was measured as the time taken to complete the course. As predicted, increased anxiety had a negative effect on processing efficiency as indexed by the self-report, pupillary response and variability of gaze data. Predicted differences due to dispositional levels of anxiety were also found in the driving control and effort data. Although both groups of drivers performed worse under the threatening condition, the performance of the high trait anxious individuals was affected to a greater extent by the anxiety manipulation than the performance of the low trait anxious drivers. The findings suggest that processing efficiency theory holds promise as a theoretical framework for examining the relationship between anxiety and performance in sport. 相似文献
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Wilson C Simpson SE van Emmerik RE Hamill J 《Sports biomechanics / International Society of Biomechanics in Sports》2008,7(1):2-9
The aim of this study was to examine the influence of skill of expert triple jumpers on the coordination variability of lower extremity intra-limb couplings. In contrast to the traditional motor learning perspective, we hypothesized that as skill and thus performance increases, movement coordination variability will also increase. Three-dimensional kinematic and ground reaction force data were collected during the hop-step transition phase of the triple jump. Relative motion plots and a modified vector coding technique were used to quantify the coordination variability across the trials. The results were consistent with a U-shaped curve, representing coordination variability, as skill increases. The high coordination variability in less skilled athletes is present while the appropriate characteristics defining the movement coordination patterns are acquired. This coordination variability may not be beneficial to performance. As the refinement of these characteristics is achieved, coordination variability decreases, resulting in a more consistent or regulated performance. In the final stages of developing a skilled performance, a functional variability is accessed that brings flexibility to the system allowing it to cope with perturbations. This study highlights the need to address the learning effect when analysing coordination variability from a dynamical systems perspective. 相似文献
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In this paper a summary is given of the various processes which have been proposed for making the potash in the natural silicates available as a fertilizer.Experimental trials of a new rotary kiln process for treating feldspar are described, which depends upon a previous treatment before furnacing, consisting of a method of aggregating or clumping the mix so that chemical contact of the reacting substances is brought about during the subsequent processing. The qualitative and quantitative results obtained on a number of experimental trials on a mill scale of operation are presented and discussed. It is shown that it is possible to economically manufacture a potash fertilizer containing free lime from feldspar, and for a sufficiently low cost to make an industry based upon the method worthy of consideration. 相似文献
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Wilson Bain 《Educational studies》1993,19(3):373-377
This paper assesses the significance of articles in the Scottish Government Yearbook, 1976‐92, for understanding of educational issues in that period. Experienced writers contributed 20 such articles on schooling, training, tertiary education, the Technical and Vocational Education Initiative, parental choice and devolved management. All are important for aspects of education systems in the United Kingdom, either because they concern distinctively Scottish approaches or they explore common themes across Britain and beyond. Many draw upon the history and cultures of Scottish and English education, to place educational policy in as broad a social context as is possible within the compass of 10 to 40 pages. The Yearbook has now metamorphosed into a quarterly, Scottish Affairs. It has played a distinctive role as an annual of record and debate to serve the present decade. 相似文献
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