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1.
There is limited information on the anthropometry, strength, endurance and flexibility of female rock climbers. The aim of this study was to compare these characteristics in three groups of females: Group 1 comprised 10 elite climbers aged 31.3 +/- 5.0 years (mean +/- s) who had led to a standard of 'hard very severe'; Group 2 consisted of 10 recreational climbers aged 24.1 +/- 4.0 years who had led to a standard of 'severe'; and Group 3 comprised 10 physically active individuals aged 28.5 +/- 5.0 years who had not previously rock-climbed. The tests included finger strength (grip strength, finger strength measured on climbing-specific apparatus), flexibility, bent arm hang and pull-ups. Regression procedures (analysis of covariance) were used to examine the influence of body mass, leg length, height and age. For finger strength, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values (P < 0.05) than the recreational climbers and non-climbers (four fingers, right hand: elite 321 +/- 18 N, recreational 251 +/- 14 N, non-climbers 256 +/- 15 N; four fingers, left hand: elite 307 +/- 14 N, recreational 248 +/- 12 N, non-climbers 243 +/- 11 N). For grip strength of the right hand, the elite climbers recorded significantly higher values than the recreational climbers only (elite 338 +/- 12 N, recreational 289 +/- 10 N, non-climbers 307 +/- 11 N). The results suggest that elite climbers have greater finger strength than recreational climbers and non-climbers.  相似文献   

2.
Abstract

The aim of this study was to characterize forearm muscle fatigue identified by the decrease in electromyogram median frequency and/or fingertip force during intermittent exercise. Nine elite climbers (international competitive level, USA 5.14a on sight) and ten non-climbers were instructed to maintain a fingertip force of 80% of their maximal voluntary contraction force on a dynamometer mimicking a rock climbing grip during a 5 s effort/5 s rest cycle for 36 repetitions (i.e. 6 min of exercise). Elite climbers lasted twice as long as non-climbers (climbers: 3 min; non-climbers: 1 min 30 s) before the force could no longer be maintained (i.e. the failure point). After this moment, fingertip force decreased and stabilized until the end of the exercise around 50% maximum voluntary contraction force in non-climbers and 63% in elite climbers. Electromyogram median frequency showed a greater decrease in non-climbers than in elite climbers before the failure point. No change in median frequency was observed after the failure point in elite climbers or in non-climbers. These results confirm that elite climbers are better adapted than non-climbers for performing the intermittent fingertip effort before the failure point. After this point, the better fingertip force of elite climbers suggests different forearm muscle properties, while the electromyography results do not provide any indication about the fatigue process.  相似文献   

3.
The aim of this study was to characterize forearm muscle fatigue identified by the decrease in electromyogram median frequency and/or fingertip force during intermittent exercise. Nine elite climbers (international competitive level, USA 5.14a on sight) and ten non-climbers were instructed to maintain a fingertip force of 80% of their maximal voluntary contraction force on a dynamometer mimicking a rock climbing grip during a 5 s effort/5 s rest cycle for 36 repetitions (i.e. 6 min of exercise). Elite climbers lasted twice as long as non-climbers (climbers: 3 min; non-climbers: 1 min 30 s) before the force could no longer be maintained (i.e. the failure point). After this moment, fingertip force decreased and stabilized until the end of the exercise around 50% maximum voluntary contraction force in non-climbers and 63% in elite climbers. Electromyogram median frequency showed a greater decrease in non-climbers than in elite climbers before the failure point. No change in median frequency was observed after the failure point in elite climbers or in non-climbers. These results confirm that elite climbers are better adapted than non-climbers for performing the intermittent fingertip effort before the failure point. After this point, the better fingertip force of elite climbers suggests different forearm muscle properties, while the electromyography results do not provide any indication about the fatigue process.  相似文献   

4.
The aim of the study was to examine several physiological responses to a climbing-specific task to identify determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing. Finger strength and endurance of intermediate rock climbers (n = 11) and non-climbers (n = 9) were compared using climbing-specific apparatus. After maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) trials, two isometric endurance tests were performed at 40% (s = 2.5%) MVC until volitional exhaustion (continuous contractions and intermittent contractions of 10 s, with 3 s rest between contractions). Changes in muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectroscopy. Statistical significance was set at P < 0.05. Climbers had a higher mean MVC (climbers: 485 N, s = 65; non-climbers 375 N, s = 91) (P = 0.009). The group mean endurance test times were similar. The force-time integral, used as a measure of climbing-specific endurance, was greater for climbers in the intermittent test (climbers: 51,769 N x s, s = 12,229; non-climbers: 35,325 N x s, s = 9724) but not in the continuous test (climbers: 21,043 N x s, s = 4474; non-climbers: 15,816 N x s, s = 6263). Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of the variability in the force-time integral. Change in total haemoglobin was significantly greater in non-climbers (continuous test) than climbers (P = 0.023--40% test timepoint, P = 0.014--60% test timepoint). Pressor responses were similar between groups and not related to the force-time integral for either test. We conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance.  相似文献   

5.
This study was designed to examine the reliability of peak finger force during 4-finger curling in a sample of expert level young competitive rock climbers. The participants (N = 31; 16 boys, 15 girls; 13.0 ± 2.7 years of age) completed 2 maximal finger curls with each hand. Finger force was measured via a piezoelectric force sensor fitted with a plate to accept the first digits of the 4 fingers. Force was applied to the plate/sensor by the fingers via a 3-sec maximal contraction. Reliability of the finger curl for each hand was estimated using a one-way repeated measure analysis of variance (ANOVA) and intraclass test-retest correlation. Reliability of the measurement for the left hand was estimated at R = .947 (.95 confidence interval, .891-.975). Reliability for the right hand was estimated at R = .902 (.95 confidence interval, .796-.953). No significant ( p > .05) differences were found between the 2 trials for either hand. Peak force measurement during maximal finger curls using this protocol and population was judged to be reliable.  相似文献   

6.
Abstract

The aim of the study was to examine several physiological responses to a climbing-specific task to identify determinants of endurance in sport rock climbing. Finger strength and endurance of intermediate rock climbers (n = 11) and non-climbers (n = 9) were compared using climbing-specific apparatus. After maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) trials, two isometric endurance tests were performed at 40% (s = 2.5%) MVC until volitional exhaustion (continuous contractions and intermittent contractions of 10 s, with 3 s rest between contractions). Changes in muscle blood oxygenation and muscle blood volume were recorded in the flexor digitorum superficialis using near infra-red spectroscopy. Statistical significance was set at P < 0.05. Climbers had a higher mean MVC (climbers: 485 N, s = 65; non-climbers 375 N, s = 91) (P = 0.009). The group mean endurance test times were similar. The force – time integral, used as a measure of climbing-specific endurance, was greater for climbers in the intermittent test (climbers: 51,769 N · s, s = 12,229; non-climbers: 35,325 N · s, s = 9724) but not in the continuous test (climbers: 21,043 N · s, s = 4474; non-climbers: 15,816 N · s, s = 6263). Recovery of forearm oxygenation during rest phases (intermittent test) explained 41.1% of the variability in the force – time integral. Change in total haemoglobin was significantly greater in non-climbers (continuous test) than climbers (P = 0.023 – 40% test timepoint, P = 0.014 – 60% test timepoint). Pressor responses were similar between groups and not related to the force – time integral for either test. We conclude that muscle re-oxygenation during rest phases is a predictor of endurance performance.  相似文献   

7.
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8.
Abstract

Currently, direct empirical evidence exists about the amount of mechanical load that climbers apply to each finger during several hand grips specific to sport climbing, but not yet in a specific hanging position.

The objectives of this study are a) to draw and build a solid and rigid support that simulates the real action of a hand grip in a hanging position in sport climbing, to enable the measurement of the mechanical load endured by the fingers in a hanging position and in addition, b) to describe the distribution of mechanical load among fingers as a function of the level of climbing during different hand grips in a hanging position.

Thirty young male participants took part in the initial phase of reliability of the measurements, while another 64 male climbers participated in the subsequent study phase to check the relations between independent and dependent variables. The level of on sight climbing and the total practice experience were used to define the groups. The research task consisted of performing hanging positions on the created support in order to measure the mechanical load endured by the fingers in the three most characteristic hand grips in climbing (crimp, half crimp and slope). It has been concluded that the performance level of the climbers had no influence on the production of a pattern of differentiated finger mechanical load during the research task.  相似文献   

9.
Connective tissue adaptations in the fingers of performance sport climbers   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  
Abstract

This study investigates the changes of the connective tissue in the fingers of performance sport climbers resulting after a minimum of 15 years of climbing. Evaluation was performed by ultrasonography on the palmar side of the fingers (Dig) II–V to measure the thickness of the A2 and A4 annular pulleys, the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) and profundus (FDP) tendons and the palmar plates (PP's) of the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) as well as distal interphalangeal (DIP) joint in sagittal and axial direction. Totally, 31 experienced male sport climbers (mean age 37y, 30–48y grade French scale median 8b, range 7b+ to 9a+) participated in the study. The control-group consisted of 20 male non-climbers (age 37y, 30–51y). The A2 and A4 pulleys in climbers were all significantly thicker (A2 Dig III 62%, Dig IV 69%; A4 Dig III 69%, Dig IV 76%) as compared to non-climbers pulleys. All PP's of the DIP joints were also significantly thicker, particularly at Dig III and IV (76 and 67%), whereas the PP's at PIP joints were only scarce significant for three joints. Differences of the diameter of the flexor tendons were less distinct (1–21%) being significant only over the middle phalanx. High load to the fingers of rock climbers after a minimum of 15 years of climbing years induced considerable connective tissue adaptions in the fingers, most distinct at the flexor tendon pulleys and joint capsule (PP) of the DIP joints and well detectable by ultrasound.  相似文献   

10.
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11.
王中南 《体育学刊》2005,12(1):125-127
结合排球传球基本技术对手指和手腕的要求，创编了手指操，并通过4次教学实验，经对照比较发现坚持手指操练习能发展手指灵活性，增强手指、手腕力量，对排球传球技术的掌握有很好的促进作用。94．2％的受试认同了这种教学实验。  相似文献   

12.
Different ambient temperatures are known to affect muscular performance based on the type of contraction. The effect of cold (10°C) and thermoneutral (TN) (24°C) ambient temperatures on finger flexor performance was examined in 12 rock climbers. After 30?min of seated rest in the designated temperature condition, participants completed maximal voluntary contractions (MVC) on a climbing-specific finger flexor assessment device equipped with a crimp grip hold. Participants then completed an intermittent fatiguing task until failure. The fatiguing task consisted of 10-s contractions at 40% MVC followed by a 3-s of rest. MVC recovery was assessed immediately, 5, 10, and 15?min post-task failure. Estimated muscle temperature and subjective thermal ratings were significantly lower throughout testing in the cold condition (P?<?.001). Finger flexor MVC strength was similar between conditions at baseline and throughout recovery. Time to task failure was significantly longer (364?±?135 vs. 251?±?97 s, P?=?.003) and force time integral was greater (53,715?±?19,988 vs. 40,243?±?15,360?Ns, P?=?.001) during the cold condition. No significant differences were found between conditions for force variability or electromyography (EMG) at the start and end of the fatiguing task. However, the rate of increase in EMG for the TN condition was significantly faster (P?=?.03). These results suggest important implications for researchers when examining climbing performance, especially in outdoor settings where temperatures may vary from day to day. Inconsistencies in testing temperatures might significantly affect muscular endurance.  相似文献   

13.
The aim of the study was to evaluate, by an electromyographic (EMG) and mechanomyographic (MMG) combined approach, whether years of specific climbing activity induced neuromuscular changes towards performances related to a functional prevalence of fast resistant or fast fatigable motor units. For this purpose, after the maximum voluntary contraction (MVC) assessment, 11 elite climbers and 10 controls performed an exhaustive handgrip isometric effort at 80% MVC. Force, EMG and MMG signals were recorded from the finger flexor muscles during contraction. Time and frequency domain analysis of EMG and MMG signals was performed. In climbers: (i) MVC was higher (762 ± 34 vs 512 ± 57 N; effect size: 1.64; confidence interval: 0.65–2.63; P < 0.05); (ii) endurance time at 80% MVC was 43% longer (34.2 ± 3.7 vs 22.3 ± 1.5 s; effect size: 1.21; confidence interval: 0.28–2.14; P < 0.05); (iii) force accuracy and stability were greater during contraction (P < 0.05); (iv) EMG and MMG parameters were higher throughout the entire isometric effort (P < 0.05). Collectively, force, EMG and MMG combined analysis revealed that several years of specific climbing activity addressed the motor control system to adopt muscle activation strategies based on the functional prevalence of fast resistant motor units.  相似文献   

14.
Abstract

The aims of this study were to examine training characteristics, body composition, muscular strength, and endurance in sport climbers, and to demonstrate the relationship among these components by means of structural equation modelling. Altogether, 205 sport climbers (136 males, 69 females), with a performance RP (red point) of grade 4 to 11 on the Union Internationale des Association d'Alpinisme (UIAA) scale, took part in the study. The proposed structural model, with latent variable hand–arm strength and endurance (developed from reference values for simple tests), indicated by three manifest variables (grip strength, bent-arm hang, and finger hang) and three exogenous variables (body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience), explained 97% of the variance in climbing performance. The relationship between body fat and climbing experience/volume with climbing performance was not direct, but was better explained using the mediator hand–arm strength and endurance. We conclude that these simple tests, together with percent body fat, volume of climbing, and climbing experience, can satisfactorily predict climbing performance.  相似文献   

15.
The aim of this study was to understand how the commonly used climbing-specific grip techniques and hold depths influence the finger force capacities. Ten advanced climbers performed maximal voluntary force on four different hold depths (from 1 to 4 cm) and in two force directions (antero-posterior and vertical) using three grip techniques (slope, half crimp and full crimp). A specially designed platform instrumented with a 6-degrees-of-freedom (DoF) force/torque sensor was used to record force values. Results showed that the maximal vertical forces differed significantly according to the hold depth and the grip technique (ranged from 350.8 N to 575.7 N). The maximal vertical forces increased according to the hold depth but the form of this increase differed depending on grip technique. These results seemed to be more associated with finger-hold contact/interaction than with internal biomechanical factors. Similar results were revealed for antero-posterior forces (ranged from 69.9 N to 138.0 N) but, it was additionally noted that climbers have different hand-forearm posture strategies with slope and crimp grip techniques when applying antero-posterior forces. This point is important as it could influence the body position adopted during climbing according to the chosen grip technique. For trainers and designers, a polynomial regression model was proposed in order to predict the mean maximal force based on hold depth and adopted grip technique.  相似文献   

16.
Abstract

The aim of this study was to compare equations for estimating percentage body fat from skinfold thickness in elite sport climbers by assessing their agreement with percentage body fat measured using dual-energy X-ray absorptiometry (DXA). Skinfold thickness was measured in a convenience sample of 19 elite sport climbers [9 women and 10 men; mean age 31.2 years (s = 5.0) and 28.6 years (s = 3.6), respectively]. Percentage body fat was estimated using 17 different equations, and it was also measured by DXA. A significant inter-methods difference was observed for all equations, except for Durnin's equation in men (inter-methods difference: ?0.57% and ?0.29%; 1.96 s: 5.56 and 5.23 for Siri's and Brozek's equation, respectively) and women (inter-methods difference: ?0.67% and ?1.29% for Siri's and Brozek's equation, respectively), and for Wilmore's equation using Siri's body fat equation in women (inter-methods difference: ?1.86%). In women, the limits of agreement were lower when using Durnin's equation compared with Wilmore's equation (1.96 s: 3.86% and 5.13%, respectively). In conclusion, of the 17 studied equations, Durnin's equation was the most accurate in estimating percentage body fat in both male and female elite climbers. Therefore, Durnin's equation could be used to assess percentage body fat in elite sport climbers if more accurate methods are not available. The generalizability of the results is limited by the fact that the sample was not selected at random.  相似文献   

17.
Abstract

In this study, we determined the specificity of a low frequency taekwondo training programme on physical fitness levels in adolescent females who receive limited physical education instruction (i.e. 2 days per week). Major components of physical fitness assessed were: skeletal muscle fitness (hand grip strength, bent arm hang, standing long jump, and isokinetic strength), flexibility (sit-and-reach test), speed and agility (10 × 5-m shuttle run), and cardiovascular fitness ([Vdot]O 2max and 20-m shuttle run). Changes in body composition were also assessed (dual X-ray absorptiometry, DXA). Participants were divided into two groups, a taekwondo training group (n = 21), which trained 50 min a day, 2 days per week for 12 weeks, and a control group (n = 10). Taekwondo training improved isokinetic strength, standing long jump, and sit-and-reach performance. Body fat mass and percent body fat were reduced. No changes in grip strength, bent arm hang time, speed and agility, or cardiorespiratory fitness were observed. Results indicate that low frequency taekwondo training in adolescent females produces beneficial changes in skeletal muscle fitness, flexibility, and body composition in a relatively short period of time. Consequently, this specific type of training can be useful to female adolescents in structured school environments where physical education classes are limited and there is little free time for physical activity.  相似文献   

18.
Pull-ups are often used by sport-climbers and other athletes to train their arm and back muscle capabilities. Sport-climbers use different types of holds to reinforce finger strength concomitantly. However, the effect of grip types on pull-up performance had not previously been investigated. A vertical force platform sensor measured the force exerted by climbers when performing pull-ups under six different grip conditions (gym-bar, large climbing hold, and four small climbing holds: 22mm, 18mm, 14mm, and 10mm). The electromyography of finger flexors and extensor muscles were recorded simultaneously. The maximal arm power and summed mechanical work were computed. The results revealed that the number of pull-ups, maximal power, and summed mechanical work decreased significantly with the size of the climbing hold used, even if no differences were found between a large climbing hold and a gym-bar. Electromyography of the forearm muscles revealed that the use of a climbing hold generated finger flexor fatigue and that the level of cocontraction was impacted by the different segment coordination strategies generated during the pull-ups. These findings are likely to be useful for quantifying training loads more accurately and designing training exercises and programs.  相似文献   

19.
Currently, the physiological mechanisms that allow elite level climbers to maintain intense isometric contractions for prolonged periods of time are unknown. Furthermore, it is unclear whether blood flow or muscle oxidative capacity best governs performance. This study aimed to determine the haemodynamic kinetics of 2 forearm flexor muscles in 3 ability groups of rock climbers. Thirty-eight male participants performed a sustained contraction at 40% of maximal voluntary contraction (MVC) until volitional fatigue. Oxygen saturation and blood flow was assessed using near infrared spectroscopy and Doppler ultrasound. Compared to control, intermediate, and advanced groups, the elite climbers had a significantly (P < 0.05) higher strength-to-weight ratio (MVC/N), de-oxygenated the flexor digitorum profundus significantly (P < 0.05) more (32, 34.3, and 42.8 vs. 63% O2, respectively), and at a greater rate (0.32, 0.27, and 0.34 vs. 0.77 O2%·s?1, respectively). Furthermore, elite climbers de-oxygenated the flexor carpi radialis significantly (P < 0.05) more and at a greater rate than the intermediate group (36.5 vs. 14.6% O2 and 0.43 vs. 0.1O2%·s?1, respectively). However, there were no significant differences in total forearm ? blood flow. An increased MVC/N is not associated with greater blood flow occlusion in elite climbers; therefore, oxidative capacity may be more important for governing performance.  相似文献   

20.
A cinematographic analysis of the drive off the front foot (D) and the forward defensive stroke (FD) was undertaken to establish the kinematic and kinetic factors involved in playing these strokes against medium-fast bowling. Fourteen provincial cricket batsmen were filmed at 100 Hz while batting on a turf pitch with a specially instrumented bat. Results for the drive off the front foot revealed that the movement and stroke pattern were generally supportive of the coaching literature, with the forward defensive stroke forming the basis of the drive. Certain mechanical differences, although non-significant, were evident to facilitate the attacking nature of the front foot drive and included a higher backlift (FD = 0.65 m; D = 0.74 m), later commencement of the stride (FD = 0.64 s pre-impact; D = 0.58 s pre-impact) and downswing of the bat (FD = 0.38 s pre-impact; D = 0.36 s pre-impact), a shorter front foot stride (FD = 0.72 m; D = 0.68 m) with the front foot placement taking place later (FD = 0.14 s pre-impact; D = 0.06 s pre-impact), and the back foot dragging further forward at impact (FD = 0.05 m; D = 0.10 m). The front upper limb moved as a multi-segmental series of levers, which resulted in the drive showing significantly greater (P < 0.05) peak bat horizontal velocity at 0.02 s preimpact (FD = 3.53 ± 3.44 m . s -1 ; D = 11.8 ± 4.61 m . s -1 ) and 0.02 s post-impact (FD = 2.73 ± 2.88 m . s -1 ; D = 11.3 ± 4.21 m . s -1 ). The drive showed a significantly greater (P < 0.05) bat-ball closing horizontal velocity (FD = 24.2 ± 4.65 m . s-1; D = 32.3 ± 5.06 m . s -1 ) and post-impact ball horizontal velocity (FD = 6.85 5.12 m . s -1 ; D = 19.5 ± 2.13 m . s -1 ) than for the forward defensive stroke. The point of bat-ball contact showed nonsignificant differences, but occurred further behind the front ankle (FD = 0.09 ± 0.17 m; D = 0.20 ± 0.13 m), with the bat more vertical at impact (FD = 62.6 ± 6.53 ; D = 77.8 ± 7.05). Significant differences (P < 0.01) occurred between the grip forces of the top and bottom hands for the two strokes, with the principal kinetic finding that the top hand plays the dominant role during the execution of the drive with the bottom hand reinforcing it at impact. Similar grip force patterns for the two strokes occurred during the initial part of the stroke, with the drive recording significantly greater (P < 0.05) forces at 0.02 s pre-impact (top hand: FD = 129 ± 41.6 N; D = 199 ± 40.9 N; bottom hand: FD = 52.2 ± 16.9 N; D = 91.8 ± 41.1 N), at impact (top hand: FD = 124 ± 29.3 N; D = 158 ± 56.2 N; bottom hand: FD = 67.1 ± 21.5 N; D = 86.2 ± 58.2 N) and 0.02 s postimpact (top hand: FD = 111 ± 22.2 N; D = 126 ± 28.5 N; bottom hand: FD = 65.5 ± 26.9 N; D = 82.4 ± 28.6 N).  相似文献   

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